Water heater hook up kit


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Okay, so this is the part that everyone freaks out about and with good reason. Gas is explosive and that seems to bother people. I get it but honestly, electricity is more scary if you ask me and I've worked with both regularly for many years. You see, gas warns you if something is wrong.

It will hiss and it will stink, both letting you know that something is not right. Before we move on, just pay attention with your eyes, nose and ears as you do this part. Loosen the line slowly so that you can stop immediately and begin to tighten it back up should you hear hissing from the line. This would mean that somehow, you had forgotten to shut it off or shut it off completely.

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If you unscrew it fast, you risk the line coming apart completely before realizing there is a problem. Trust me, if you're paying attention you're not likely to have any problems. Did I really need to say that? Yes, yes I did. Okay, so we disconnect the line at what is called the union. The union will be located between the main valve and where it connects to the water heater. It is a fitting that allows the line to be joined to a stationary object.

Otherwise, you would reach a point where you'll need to screw the line into the heater and as you do, it will unscrew from the last piece you connected. You place one pipe wrench on the big nut, pulling left to right and one on the smaller nut below, pulling right to left. This will "break" open the union allowing it to be split in half.

Once the union is open, take the remaining gas line off of the old tank. So long as this pipe is in good condition, you will use it to connect to your new water tank.

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Many times, the new tank and the old tank will line right back up. If not, miscellaneous gas fittings can be purchased at just about any hardware or home improvement store. Use a copper tubing cutter to cut your water lines. It's important not to go to fast meaning you snug it up to the line, go around a couple times then tighten again, then go around a couple times, then tighten and so on. Okay, the last thing we need to do before taking this piece of junk to the scrap heap is cut it loose from the water lines. On the hot water side, we don't really have much to worry about in the way of where we cut the line.

The water from this side of the tank is off and emptied so we won't have any real mess to speak of.

Your only real consideration here is how much you'll have to do to reconnect it. This is definitely a "less is more" scenario. If at all possible, we'd like to just go up a few inches off the tank and cut so that we can use as little material as possible connecting our new tank. As for the cold water side, if you have a shut off valve that is in good shape, you'll want to cut below that so that you can keep the water on to the rest of the house and if not, you'll have to shut off the water at the main and I suggest installing a new valve while you have this all opened up.

It's not uncommon for a new tank to leave some dampness on the floor when it's first being used. This is because there is an insulated lining between the tank and the outer shell that can gather humidity while in storage waiting to be sold. Now when you heat it up, that trapped moisture will condensate, run to the bottom of the tank and onto the floor. Give it a day. If you still see water down there then you may have a problem. Now, I'm not talking about a running river here. If you have that much water, there is definitely a problem but if it's just a smaller amount, I wouldn't panic.

It will likely be gone tomorrow. Okay, a couple of little things here before we get started putting our new tank in that I think will give you a "heads up" and maybe save you a couple dollars too. If it was on top of the old tank, like mine, and will be on the side of the new tank, you can make 2 cuts on the tube, one on the vertical drop and one on the horizontal run.

Doing this will allow you to "couple" the line back together, cut it to length and reuse it on the new tank instead of buying another one. Also, since you're likely cracking open your new tank, don't throw away any paperwork. You're going to have to register your warranty and you may even want to take the sticker of the box that has the model and serial number stamped on it and tape it to your paperwork so it's convenient if you ever need it for warranty parts.

Lastly, clean up the area. Clean where you're new tank will sit since you won't have access to this spot again for some time and once the new tank goes in, it could be hard to tell if you have new water messes or old water messes when you're testing the connections and such for your new tank. A clean slate will help to detect any issues before "sticking a fork in" this project. Now, the rest of the family would like to have hot water again sometime today so Installing our water heater is really as easy as reversing everything we just did.

We need to put the new water tank in place being sure that the hot and cold water sides are properly lined up with the plumbing as it was before. Not everything has to be in perfect place as you will have some room for adjustment as you go but let's get it pretty close here. I suggest reconnecting in the following order. Since everyone will have a slightly unique situation in reconnecting their water heater, let me just offer you some tips and lists that will help you to determine your best approach. This is true for most residential water heaters. At least those that are between 40 and 50 gallons.

Many people have avoided plumbing for the reason of having to "sweat" or solder copper fittings. Well let me introduce you to the push fitting. Push fittings couldn't have made plumbing any easier.

How to Replace Water Heater Supply Lines

You simply push the fitting onto the pipe and "voila", you're done. You can even remove the fitting with a special, very inexpensive tool made by the manufacturer. You simply slide the tool onto the pipe, push it against the end of the fitting, wiggle and These fittings can even be turned or rotated once they're installed so you don't even have to be perfectly straight right away when say making sure the handle of a valve is in front.

Go ahead, put it on backwards Once in place, just spin in to where you want it and "voila" you're a pro. These fittings are nearly as good as an invention as running water itself. You may have heard otherwise but I have used these all over my home and have yet to have a problem. I don't suggest using them in areas that are inaccessible simply because the oldest one I have is 7 years and though it's holding up fine, these haven't been around long enough to say what they'll do in That said, for our purposes here They are a bit more expensive but worth every penny as far as I'm concerned.

Just place the insert in the pipe and listen for the click, click. As for compression and threaded fittings Again, really simple and no soldering. Just put a little Teflon tape on the nipple, hand tighten them down, put a wrench on it to snug it up and yep, "voila". One last thing and then I'll let the pictures do the talking. You'll hear the term "dielectric" be thrown around when talking about water tank installation.

In short, a dielectric nipple or union are needed because copper reacts chemically with certain metals. In this case, the metal your water heater is made of. This reaction causes corrosion and ruins the integrity of the copper, in turn giving you leaks. Most every water heater today has dielectric nipples mounted on the unit already and if you use the braided Sharkbite lines shown in the picture above, you won't need a dielectric union either as they have it built right on the hose.

I use these on about every job nowadays. When reconnecting your gas line, work from the control valve on the water heater back to the union where you took it apart. This way, when you get to the union, you can connect the 2 lines without the parts unscrewing from each other.

Once you've gotten to the union, line it up, begin to hand tighten and then put your 2 wrenches on it as you did when you took it apart. One on the big nut, one on the smaller nut below and turn them in opposite directions until snug. This should complete your gas line hook up. Here are a couple of other things you need to know about running gas line. You still have your flue to hook up but this might be the simplest part of it all.

Garden hose water heater hook up

Just slide it back into place at the chimney connection and lower it down onto the draft hood that you've been provided with your tank. As long as you're installing a similar water heater to the one you've just removed, these should line right back up. Put the screws back in and At this point, now that you've read up on draining your water heater , you know how to fill up your water heater as well. Without further ado, and with the tank filled up, let's get the show back on the road by lighting up our water heater and watching as it works for the first time.

By now, you've inspected for leaks but keep watching. As our tank heats up and the pressure is stabilizing, leaks that weren't there before can begin to show themselves. So long as all is well, you should have hot water in no time. With some of the newer units, you may even have an LED light to tell you all is well on the control module.

I hope this information has been helpful and the pictures useful in helping understand the parts and terminology being used. The work isn't rocket science, maybe not even as hard as the reading. I just want to be as clear as possible, covering as many aspects of the task as possible. As always, never assume or guess at anything when working with your household appliances.

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Especially those that are gas burning or use electricity. These tasks are to be done carefully and with the understanding that there is risk involved. My aim is to help you, not put you in harms way. If you are not confident in performing these tasks, don't.

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Contact a professional to do this for you and feel better knowing what it is he's up to. Sign in or sign up and post using a HubPages Network account. Comments are not for promoting your articles or other sites. Chase - Thank you for your comments. I do enjoy getting these from time to time from those who are upset by my teaching people how to do for themselves.

Surely you're aware that the connection on the draft hood is 3" OR 4" venting as stated in the manual and since I'm well under max length per the venting tables that came with the unit, my chimney is centered in the home, and is B-Vent top to bottom, 3" was just fine. Also, while 12" vertical is recommended, it is not mandatory and since I have a short ceiling, there is no way to meet that even with a lowboy which, I'm sure you know, has been increased in size due to the last set of EPA regulations.

Since the gas cock is free turning and leak free there was no reason to change it and since I don't have to drink from it, I'm not concerned with lead content either. A small propane or water heater. Hook up kit with propane heater f inch length two tank. Southmayd tx top of running to something like a propane lb bottle to install the electrical hook-up kit. Find great deals on each https: Is a thermostat limit switch it can be used to tank-top propane. Easy-To-Install propane furnace, includes everything typically needed for new contractor finder. Items 1 - 16 of a 5 piece kit - 16 of - is the hassles of 6 of two tank connections.

How to Install a Water Heater Yourself Quick and Simple

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